Norway to Ireland 2011: Arrival in Waterford, Ireland

In which we arrive at our destination, Waterford, Ireland. We arrived a day earlier than forecast (Wednesday) and we then partook of the Tall Ships Festival in Waterford for the next  three days. It was a monster party. More on that next time.

Day 12   Thursday             June 30, 2011

All day yesterday was spent getting the ship ready for port and ready for public tours. The 12-4 watch pulled in the remaining three staysails and the 4-8 watch did the final trimming of the braces. When we got on deck at 8, our watch had the pleasure of starting to polish the brass. We hadn’t realized until then how much brass the ship carried: door handles, signs and plaques, half the pins for securing the lines, window rims, the two compass pedestals, and the ship’s bell.

Yikes! We spent four hours in the morning and then were “invited” back to help the 12-4 watch get it done. I don’t think we finished until about 3 p.m.

By now we were in sight of the Irish coast and following the Soerlandet to the mouth of the Suir River. I was really looking forward to the trip up the river and seeing the other class A ships, especially the Russian ship, the Mir, the only serious competition that the Christian Radich has at this point in the history of the sport (at least that’s what the crew says!).

 

Yesterday we were so busy that I had no time to make an entry. We tied up in Waterford last evening about 6:30 with great pageantry. It was a remarkable ride up the Suir River with an Irish pilot on board directing the helmsman. It was a beautiful entry, mostly sunny with a couple of brief showers to give us a view of why this country is so green. There were people lining both banks of the river the entire 15 miles into port. They were waving and cheering, some with Irish flags, and when we thought they could hear us, we shouted back. Alan tried to get across the point that he was single and whenever we passed a pub, he tried to order a Guinness.

On our final approach we were met by three tugs that deftly pushed
and pulled us into our mooring. The crew did a great job working with the dock hands to get the spring lines on the bollards.

After all the docking procedures were complete, the cooks and the stewards set up a buffet dinner on the main deck. Before dinner Captain Jagdum had all the watches assemble and passed out diplomas to each trainee signifying the distance and dates of the voyage. This was completely unexpected and a really nice touch. Mine was printed in Norwegian and Caroline offered to make one in English, but I think it’s better in Norwegian so I said no.

The dinner was exceptional and we finally had beer after 8 days at sea.  In between the diplomas and dinner the Captain passed around a shot of rum for everyone and toasted to a good voyage and a safe trip home. This ship and crew is a class act.

Next up: the Waterford Tall Ships Festival

One Year Ago: Norway to Ireland 2011

I've been thinking a lot this week about the adventure I had at the same time last year. I took part in the Tall Ships Races in northern Europe and sailed from Norway to Ireland aboard the Norwegian vessel SS Christian Radich. Many of you may have seen the photos and videos that I posted after I returned home.

I also wrote a journal of daily life and never shared that with anyone. We were completely cut off from all communication so I couldn't post to Facebook, Twitter, send text messages or even make phone calls. It was marvelously liberating! But it just occurred to me that I could post my journal entries now and relive the experience, so here goes. Depending on the length of the entries, I may combine more than one day in a post. I hope you enjoy the story.

ABOARD THE CHRISTIAN RADICH

Summer 2011

OSLO TO WATERFORD

Day 1     Sunday                 June 19, 2011

So, I’m really doing this. We’re climbing past 20,000 feet and heading ENE and the sun is blinding, coming through the west windows.  Good thing I’m on the east side of the aisle. What’s really noticeable below is the number of fields that are still brown.  Here we are past the middle of June and crops are just barely out of the ground.

The SS Christian Radich

As I said, I’m really doing this.  It’s not just a plan anymore. Day after tomorrow I’m going to board the Christian Radich in Oslo harbor and head out into the North Sea for passage to Ireland.

I’ve been smitten with the love of wind and water since childhood, but it’s been particularly evocative in the case of this specific ship.  I saw the movie Windjammer as a grammar school boy and actually, all I ever wanted was to see the movie again.  Instead of that (which may never happen, I fear), I’m going to board the Christian Radich and spend nine days at sea with her. I really don’t think it will be easy to top that, even if I’m lucky enough to see the movie again.

Day 2     Monday               June 20, 2011

Icelandair

The two flights to reach Oslo were flawless, at least on the part of the airline, Icelandair. On time, comfortable, perfect weather.  Just minor annoyances caused by fellow travelers, but nothing worth discussing.  Flying over Greenland was awe-inspiring.  All I could see as far as the horizon was lofty mountain peaks, glaciers, and snow, snow, snow. As we moved off the eastern coast, the icebergs were numerous and though it didn’t seem like it from 36,000 feet, massive, I’m sure.

Greenland from 35,000 feet

The terrain in Iceland was a stark contrast: nothing but rock as far as the eye could see.  I’d love to spend some time in Iceland, but it will have to be at a later date. I want to do my friend, Bill Holm, justice at some point. The language is singularly distinctive.  I wonder how long it would take for a guy to get the hang of it.

I did think it odd that in Rekyjavik travelers had to go through customs just to enter the airport and proceed to a connecting flight and then present their passports before boarding again. All without leaving the secure perimeter of the airport.  Never really thought about Keflavik Airport as a terrorist target.  Oh well.

Descending into Oslo Gardamoen felt like coming home.  This is my third visit to Gamle Norge, but I haven’t been here for eight years.  Gorgeous cloud formations and the countryside a brilliant variety of hues of green.

Took the Flytoget (Flying Trains per my daughter) to Oslo Sentrum and walked the approximately one kilometer to my hotel on Rosenkranz Gate, the Best Western Bondeheimen.  Some interesting bits to ponder: it’s not surprising to need your key card to use the elevator, but inside your room, you need your card to work the lights. Now that’s a rational way to control energy costs.

Christian Radich at her home port

First piece of business: find the Christian Radich. It’s a very short walk from my hotel to her berth at the foot of Akershus Castle.  There she was in all her beauty, the queen of Oslo harbor.  Walked bow to stern and back and took a bunch of pictures.  Couldn’t go on board, but did observe several trainees who arrived early.  I tried to get a berth on board the night before embarking, but was denied. We sail at 4 p.m. tomorrow.

Relaxing after an all-night flight

Back to Spikesuppa for an open-air lunch (and a couple of beers) and then back to my room for a nap.  After sleeping, I walked a square from my hotel to Universitet Gate to Stortingtgate to Nedreslots Gate and back. Took some time to enjoy the new pipe Kari gave me and had a few drinks at O’Leary’s Pub. Chatted with the bar keep, a 25-year-old from Sweden, recently emigrated to Norway because the pay is better.  He is a world traveler, telling me about his two trips to Thailand and his next trips to Miami and Barcelona.  Now it’s back to the hotel and a big day tomorrow.  Had a manic session at the bar emailing and facebook and twitter posting in anticipation of the upcoming 9-day blackout.  See you on the other side!

Tall Ships 2011 Has Run Its Course

Wylde Swan

Last Thursday, Tall Ships Races 2011 finished in Halmstad, Sweden after a four-day race that began in light winds in Stavanger, Norway. This was the longest racing leg of the summer series. The Class A winner was Wylde Swan from the Netherlands and the Christian Radich finished in 4th position on corrected time. So for the three races the Christian Radich fnished 1st in class from Waterford to Greenock, 3rd in class from Lerwick to Stavanger, and 4th in class from Stavanger to Halmstad.

Christian Radich

I'm still dumbfounded that I was able to be a bit player in this incredible summer odyssey that brings together dozens of tall ships from around the world for racing, cruising, and camaraderie with thousands of other sailors. Hats off to Sail Training International for organizing this adventure year-after-year and thanks to the host cities of 2011: Waterford, Ireland; Greenock, Scotland; Lerwick, Scotland; Stavanger, Norway; and Halmstad, Sweden.

Waterford crew parade

I encourage young people who love the water and love adventure to find a way to get on board in the coming years. And those of you who don't consider yourself young anymore, but have always wanted to take on a voyage like this, DO IT!

Tall Ships 2011: Oslo to Waterford aboard the Christian Radich

I'm back from my big summer adventure in Europe and am finally able to share my pictures. I've grouped them into four albums beginning with the 24 hours I spent in Oslo waiting to board the Christian Radich. If you want to watch the slideshows in a bigger format or look at the pictures one-at-a-time, just click on the slidewhow window and you'll go to my Picasa photos gallery.

OSLO



OSLO TO WATERFORD
The next slideshow is a record of the eight days the Christian Radich was on the water journeying from Oslo to Waterford, Ireland for Race #1 of Tall Ships Races 2011.



WATERFORD
When we reached Waterford, we motored up the River Suir escorted by the Harbor Pilot with people greeting us from the riverbank on both sides of the river. We joined the over 40 vessels registered for the first race.



DUBLIN
After leaving the Christian Radich in Waterford, I took the train to Dublin where I had 24 hours to walk all over the city center and see the sights. I spent time in St. Stephen's Green, Grafton Street, Trinity College, the Temple Bar, St. Patrick's Cathedral, and The Bleeding Horse Tavern, the oldest pub in Dublin dating from 1647.



For more information about Christian Radich, visit www.radich.no. For more information about Sail Training International, visit www.sailtraininginternational.org.