This continues the journal that I kept on my passage from Oslo, Norway to Waterford, Ireland during the prelude to the first events of the Tall Ships Races 2011.
Norway to Ireland
Tall Ships Races 2011
Day 4 Wednesday June
22, 2011
I’ve had so many experiences at this point I could write a
book and we’ve only been underway about 22 hours. I woke up Monday and decided
that I needed a couple more articles of clothing. Got directions to a nearby
sporting goods store from the hotel front desk clerk and bought a couple of
tees and a coat that’s in between my foul weather gear and my windbreaker.
Oslo harbor with City Hall in the background |
Soon the First Mate, a Dutchman named Marko, assembled
everyone on the main deck to welcome us, outline the activities for the rest of
the day, and divide us into the three watches for the journey. Everyone on the ship except the cooks and the
captain has to serve on a watch: 8-12, 12-4, or 4-8. Not sure how I lucked out, but I was assigned
to the 8-12 watch, by far the best watch (the most forgiving as far as sleep
goes.) Next was a tour of the ship (familiarization) followed by dinner. After dinner we had an alarm drill and
learned of all the dangers the ship and crew might face: fire, man overboard,
medical (illness, falls), etc. A trainee
(Christian Eriksrud, he’s been on the ship before) demonstrated how to put on a survival
suit in case we all end up in the water.
We practiced donning life preservers.
There’s a life preserver and survival suit for everybody on board.
(That’s reassuring!)
Now it was about 6:30 and we had just enough time before the
first watch (mine) started at 8 to climb the rigging. Wow! I went up the mizzen
shrouds as far as the upper topsail yardarm and skinnied out onto the foot rope
about halfway to the end. What a view
and what a feeling!
My one assigned duty on the watch (after returning to the
deck) was to take the helm at 2100 hours.
Keeping a ship this size on course required a ton of patience. It takes the rudder a long time to respond to
the helm and I did a lot of over-correcting back and forth until I got the hang
of it.
I could hardly stand by the end of the watch at midnight. I
had jet lag, my feet hurt and the sea was really active. Took every bit of
concentration I had left to stay on my feet trying to adjust to the 5 meter
seas. The poor woman on lookout got absolutely soaked (and seasick) in the brisk
wind and water. We were driving right into a SW wind.
I didn’t manage a minute of sleep, although I was in bed for
six hours. Light came in the porthole most of the night and I felt like I was
riding a rollercoaster in a supine position. I think my feet rose 15 degrees
and then my head rose 15 degrees in rotation until about 4 a.m. Or maybe it was
a wild horse I was riding!
Breakfast at 7:30, watch at 8. I was safety watch at 9,
patrolling the ship for signs of fire, medical issues, or just making a report
of unusual circumstances. After that it was another practice run up the
rigging. I climbed the main mast as far as the topgallant yard. One member of
our watch (Christian again) has been on the ship before and he scampered to the top
of the main mast. Impressive!
Before lunch we had a lesson in the names of the sails.
Christian Radich is a full-rigged square sailor and carries 27 sails. Our watch
leader is a Dane named Henrik who’s always apologizing for not knowing the
English names of the sails. He really does know them, he just has to think a
little harder when he’s teaching. Alan, the Irishman, and I, think the
Norwegian sail names are easier to remember than the English ones, so we’re
trying to help Henrik by only using the Norwegian sail names.
For lunch the spread on the buffet was extensive. In fact,
contrary to what I thought, I think I’m going to gain weight on the ship, not
lose.
After lunch we gathered on the main deck to meet with the
captain. He’d told us yesterday that he needed to make a decision sometime
today about whether we go south through the English Channel to Ireland or go
north around the top of Scotland. Consensus among the trainees was that the
northern route would be more fun and scenic, but it’s not going to come to a
vote I think.
Kristiansand Harbor |
After dinner we started our evening watch by setting two
sails, the fore mers and the kryss mers (the fore upper topsail and the mizzen
upper topsail). I assisted ably with both although I started to feel some
steadiness issues in my legs on the second one. This activity requires part
wire-walker skills, part monkey flexibility, and part rock climbing thinking
(what’s my next move going to be?).
I had dressed for lookout duty before going aloft so now
with all the climbing I was completely soaked from within. I spent the first
five minutes in the bow with my jacket off so I could evaporate the sweat, but
was soon chilled and donned the jacket again. Good thing, too, because then it
started to rain.
Standing watch in the bow |
Once again at the end of the watch I could hardly stand. We
spent the last hour on deck under a lamp learning about properly showing
maritime lights at night, but I fell asleep twice and don’t know how much I’ll
remember!
No comments:
Post a Comment